The Modern Pantry // Farringdon // London

A highlight in Farringdon, tucked between Bistrot Bruno Loubet and Granger & Co is The Modern Pantry; a well-known brunch destination. However, The Modern Pantry isn’t just for the daytime. It offers good quality cooking throughout the day. Behind the “fourneau” is chef Anna Hansen, born in Canada and raised in New Zealand. The food that she creates is that fresh, southern hemisphere style, filled with creative combinations. About as far away from French cooking you could get. For once a positive!

For starters, the salmon served sashimi style comes with a tarty passion fruit and yuzu dressing. Nothing can go wrong, but someone had to think it up this oily fish / acidic dressing combination. It’s a refreshing way to start a meal.

With the mains, you’ll notice that the menu is quite descriptive. Perhaps because the restaurant wants to tell you all about the ingredients so that people understand the complexity behind the dishes.

An example is the amazing free-range chicken, prepared like a southern hemisphere ode to the “a l’orange” style. But this one has an Asian flavour. Caramelized, glazed Jerusalem artichokes and a kumquat and pumpkin chutney make an appearance. It’s Chinese in taste, Kiwi in freshness. There’s no need to detail the long list of products, you just need to try it for yourself.

Desserts are also up to scratch and wouldn’t seem out of place in a high-end restaurant we know well. Certainly a coincidence, but the pineapple and cake dessert is visually very close to one of Marcus Wareing’s in this review . No comparison here. But the overall sweet finish is nice, with the ginger carrot cake cubes and candied whole nuts. Very nice.

The Modern Pantry does food with simplicity, creativity and good quality products. It’s a reliable spot in a permanently changing Farringdon.

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