The Gilbert Scott is one of those dining rooms that you can’t help but be impressed by. A gothic master piece by its architect namesake Sir Gilbert Scott, chef Marcus Wareing has designed his seasonal menus around dishes that you might expect to be offered at the time when the Midland Grand (now St Pancras) Hotel first opened in the 1870s.
Starting with a well mixed drink in restaurant’s separate bar, you certainly get the feeling of being in a smart hotel. Bar tenders are well trained and are very attentive. When your table is ready, there will be a seamless handing over to the host, which will build your anticipation as you enter into the magnificent dining room.
But the real test here is whether Wareing’s food does justice to the rest of the experience. While perhaps not as well executed as the Dean Street Dining Room, the food on offer is exactly what you would expect and creates a relaxing and satisfying experience.
Of note is the pan fried quail and black pudding salad, which is an unexpected and delicious entrée. A classic on the bone sole with a beurre noisette and toasted almond flakes is good value and very well cooked. The deserts perhaps are the one part of the menu that are a bit simple, but the Kendal mint cake choc ice is very pretty and certainly tastes good.
While Dean Street may have the edge on Wareing with the food, the Gilbert Scott’s dining room is a much calmer and restful; a great place to take the family.