The Five Fields // Chelsea // London

Opened in the summer of 2013, The Five Fields has something about it of a blockbuster movie, with the number of stars that it has taken to get this restaurant open. The Chef Patron, Taylor Bonnyman has an enviable CV, having worked for the legendary Pierre Gagnaire (***) as well as two local talents, Tom Aikens(*) and Marcus Wareing(**). This serious line-up of chefs has really set the scene for the perfect scenario. And believe us, this restaurant is something that really delivers. The cooking is at a simply incredible level, using astonishing combinations of flavour and exquisite quality products; everything served is the absolute best.

The Orkney scallops are an unforgettable starter, served with a patchwork of pistachio textures, pickled cucumber and roasted cauliflower. This dish is a real surprise, floating somewhere between savoury and sweet. The plump scallops are cooked to perfection and contrast against the variety of textures and flavours on the stunning plate.

The veal sweetbreads are great too, though normally we like them melting in the middle and crispy on the outside at vialaporte. At The Five Fields, you’ll find them soft and velvety, which really lets you taste their delicacy. And alongside the sweetbreads is a falling-apart piece of shin, the slight crunch of fresh fennel and the acidity of an apricot confit; a perfect combination for the tender offal.

The mains are also a victory of taste and a true demonstration of talent. Once again, the products are just the best, from the Welsh Lamb cooked two ways, dressed with a sublime tarty jus, infused with almond; a sweet taste to balance against the strong capers. The beef is simply slow cooked – braised – and is magnificent beside incredibly smooth cherry and beetroot purées. The balance is just right with a few pickled vegetables giving some bite. And the dish is completed with an original addition of some tender, young nettle leaves.

But where The Five Fields really excels is with its desserts, which really push the boundaries. The dish of milk sorbet, dill and cucumber displays the same creativity that was seen at the now closed North Road. And the lychee sorbet, with dehydrated tapioca powder, and a stunning custard with bitter orange zest between layers of Brittany crepes. For this one, we really have to take-off our chapeaux.

The Five Fields is a true pleasure and we cannot recommend it enough. We certainly expect that they will have their first star within the year if they can keep-up this standard; well done.

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