Farringdon certainly isn’t the most glamorous of London roads, tending to be more of a dual carriageway than a dining location. It’s here that the Quality Chop House has taken-up residency in an historic working man’s restaurant. Though it manages to fit in well with the neighbours around the corner at Exmouth Market. No longer is this listed Victorian dinner a stop for hungry labourers, but rather a trendy, sympathetically refurbished space, with a dining room filled with upright booths. Although the tables are laid for six, four is most probably a more comfortable setting, given the snug fit.
Front of house management comes from Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner, though it’s not a surprise given the elegance and smoothness.
The plates? A very nice surprise too, which give a very good impression. This is what we like to call “Michtronomie” – traditional ideas turned-on their head’s with creative technique. The unique menus change daily, so check the website before turning-up.
The Quality Chop House knows how to source fantastic quality products and produce, like perfectly cooked Cornish cod, placed daintily on a bed of monk’s beard, up-lifted with an infusion of anchovies. Nice, perfectly balanced.
Main course wise, a serious competitor for the best “Sunday roast” in London. For us, a black-face lamb shank and noisette, served with a simple jus, reduced to thick and tasty perfection. Accompaniments included roasted Jerusalem artichokes and an oh-so-creamy polenta, almost in an aligot style. A faint hint of morcilla gave the lamb an added richness; superb.
For dessert, a simple but perfectly tasty chocolate ganache was rich and set just right, coated with a pistachio crush. It was also miraculously light.
At the Quality Chop House, we liked how everyone was happily all squeezed in together. The booths gave a feeling of a mini brasserie. The service was spot-on and you’ll be given a sizable amount of detail (maybe a bit too much) about the experience as it unfolds. But it’s detail like this that make this place chic.
It’s clear that this team wants to mark in the fiercely competitive new world of London Michtronie. For us, the Quality Chop House definitely stands-out.