In between closing his Islington restaurant and opening-up by Smithfield Market, Morgan M was certainly getting bloggers chatting. The new location doesn’t look like much from the front, once your inside, you won’t be overwhelmed either as the decor is very neutral. It certainly doesn’t match-up with the haute cuisine style that they serve. Waiting staff aren’t that friendly either, a bit dour, which doesn’t help to build a sense of occasion.
Though you’ll soon realise that you’re here to appreciate the talent of the chef, and he is certainly not lacking that department. Morgan M has all the hallmarks of a great chef – he uses the best products to create innovative, yet authentic French cuisine.
During the summer, soup starts-off the set menu. Made with one of the sweetest melons you could find in Europe, simply dressed-up, with a sorbet made of port alongside some port cubes. Creative? certainly, and tasty too. So fresh, so delicate.
Chef also serve a fusion North African dish of a pastilla and duck, dressed with a rich red wine jusAu jus is French for "with [its own] juice"; jus is the juice itself. The 'jus' is a natural way to enhance the flavour of dishes, mainly meat like chicken, veal and lamb. and a sweet and sour beetroot purée. The pastilla is outstanding and the duck cooked to perfection.
Though where Morgan M really stands-out in the UK content is with his desserts; they’re simply amazing. More than the hum-drum pudding selection which is usually on offer, M takes dessert to the level of patisserie. The raspberry soufflé happens to be one of the best, with the coulis poured directly into its centre. But the award goes to the exquisite brandy snap creation. How does chef make things that end-up tasting better than the original recipe? That’s what makes him a great. This dessert is delicious – the sorbet on top is mouth-watering with a strong flavour of brandy.
Even though Morgan M has reached this high level of gastronomy, he has been let down by Michelin UK. Maybe they didn’t like his decor or the service? Something is missing, but it’s definitely not the food. Despite this, vialaporte thinks Morgan M exceeded the expectation set by Michelin and so, we are very pleased to award the restaurant a “plus”. Well done.