Maze ★ // Mayfair // London

Is it about time that Mr. Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants were put under the microscope again?  Ramsay can certainly be credited with elevating food to new heights that were previously unknown in London.  But has his loss of his second star at Claridge’s meant he’s lost a bit of his sparkle?  Are standards at his one star Maze as good as they were when Jason Atherton was around?  That is the main question.

Nice entrance, O.K. welcome, nice feeling.  Maybe a few hiccups but nothing major. The concept at Maze hasn’t changed, so the portions are half size, and as a result, the prices per dish are quite reasonable.

Food wise, the sea bream was really well cooked, delicately surrounded by a superb buerre blanc, made with lime and coriander. Somewhat easy, but well done – nothing wrong here.  The chicken and foie-gras terrine was another easy combination that worked well, but are these two dishes really what you expect from this level?  Perhaps not.

Straight after that was featherblade braised beef, with some togarashi spices.  Potentially the most exciting dish on the menu.  Nicely cooked, but it lacked originality.  Even the presentation, with a huge mound of purée on the side made it look a bit like a pub meal.

And what about the dining room?  Have you ever felt like you needed a bit of 90s nostalgia?  If yes, eat here.  Like yesteryear’s stars, old icons finally fade-out.  The memory of the once chic Maze is still there, but it doesn’t have that brilliant dazzle anymore.  If the food was taken to a new brasserie, it would be a hit.  The main problem is the outdated decor; time for a makeover Gordon.

Square Meal
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