Jaja // 4ème // Paris

Paris has been reinventing the concept of the bistro, with a move to “bistronomie”. Traditional dishes are given a fresh, inventive makeover. Despite trying to emulate this new style, Jaja only succeeds in giving diners a disappointing imitation.

In true bobo style, service is overly relaxed. Everyone wants to be your best friend rather than do their job. Nothing on the wine list is available and you’ll need to send-up an emergency flare every time you need to get a waiter’s attention. Worse than that, the food is decidedly average.

OK, we endorse the fact that the produce is high quality and the balance of the dishes is fine. But come on, some of the dishes look like what you’d expect to be served in a school canteen. The razor clams are a good example of this. What is the sauce? A simple garlic butter. For that price (10 €), this dish is total failure. Even the jus on the quasi de veau (veal rump) is bitter, too thin and has minimal flavour. It’s surprising that the chef let that get to the passe.

Jaja is surfing on the wave of chefs that name their producers and suppliers, who want you to know the provenance because  it is that good. The difference here is that those *** starred chefs can cook and transform these products into amazing dishes. Here, they are just fried pan and platted. If Jaja is trying to rip-off its customers by selling the products of others more than concerntrate of its own cooking and creativity, then it is a total success.

Seriously, avoid this address. There is no point paying these prices when there are so many better places to eat in Paris. We hope that French customers will soon turn away from this ever more common bobo attitude in restaurants.