Hibiscus★★ // Mayfair // London

Hibiscus is one of the few places in London where you can really appreciate the essence and true perfection of a great restaurant. Highly rated by others, Clause Bosi has managed his Mayfair restaurant like an orchestra since 2007. The dining room is intimate and welcoming, with well-dressed tables in quiet and calm environment.

It’s here that Bosi gives diners an exceptional overall experience at the real 2** Michelin, which is where restaurants like the Hand and Flowers fall-down so spectacularly. Everything about this place is perfection from the quality of products, through to the creativity of the menu and the exceptional cooking skills on display.

A memorable starter is the roll of Devon crab, coated with crushed cob-nuts, which add a sweet and delicate effect. Beside the crab is a melon sorbet with a luscious sweet fruity flavour. This combination unexpectedly works well because of the texture and temperature. The crab, being at room temperature is lifted by the cold and fresh melon sorbet. It also seems to taste stronger because of the clever mix; superb.

Though the surprise of the meal is truly the amazing quality of the main cod pavé. Cod, perhaps the most over-used uninteresting fish is brought to new levels, served on a layer of French coco de Paimpol, which are huge yellow beans that are meltingly smooth. The fish is translucent, expertly cooked, tasting like no other cod you will have ever eaten before. On the second taste, the liquorice essence adds something subtle and delicate. This dish is pure class, nothing fancy, but it demonstrates the magnificent way that Bosi does exceptional things with simple, high quality products. The execution is astonishing and there are no gimmicks, just an explosion of flavour.

Across his menu, Bosi presents harmony and delicate craftsmanship  He is not on TV every day, so he’s able to do amazing things in the kitchen. Once you leave this little sanctuary, you’ll be back outside in noisy London, with a satisfied feeling that you’ve really experienced the high standard of a genuine 2** Michelin in the UK; a true experience on the level of a true two star expectation.

Square Meal