Located just behind King’s Cross station on the new Granary Square development, Grain Store is the latest opening by restaurateur Bruno Loubet. More casual than his Clerkenwell bistrot at The Zetter, the idea at Grain Store is to serve cuisine that mixes unexpected, yet harmonious flavours. Design wise, the space is a converted warehouse with exposed brick walls, ducting and thick wooden tables, which create a nice atmosphere, centred with an open kitchen.
As for food, the menu can be a bit confusing as most of the ingredient combinations will be new to you. However, the starter of confit salmon with peach and salted watermelon is really worth a try. The rich taste of the fish works well with both fresh fruit flavours and the crunchy salty bite is a nice addition. Or, for a risk-free choice, the truffle risotto (when available) is absolutely perfect.
For mains, the sticky pork belly served with a corn & quinoa tamale is actually quite surprising as its side comes wrapped in a dried corn husk. Unfortunately the tamale mixture is a bit bland and as tasty as the meat is, thing don’t quite balance-out. The sea bream on another hand is good but the description is a bit misleading at it’s unexpectedly based on curry flavours. Sitting beneath the nicely cooked fish are some mashed-up lentils, which are quite spicy and borderline on being overpowering.
Desert wise, the dark chocolate mousse and almond ice-cream are like a deconstructed marzipan. The flavours are intense and the white chocolate rice crispy is a delicious garnish. All of the homemade ice-creams and sorbets high quality and worth a try.
As Grain Store only opened in the summer of 2013, it’s not surprising that there are a few fine-tuning issues to overcome. However, the quality of the products and the obvious desire to welcome and please is certainly abundant. With a couple of adjustments, the place should quickly become a reference for the casual, tasty place to eat in this developing area.