Angler ★ // The City // London

London’s fish restaurant scene is going from strength to strength. Whether you’re looking for the sophistication of Corrigan’s or the lively atmosphere of Randall & Aubin, seafood is getting some fine treatment across the capital. And somewhere that really embodies this movement is the D&D restaurant group’s second starred restaurant, Angler.

Set atop of the South Place Hotel, the elegant Angler dining room is long and slender, which creates a quiet atmosphere with a lovely outdoor terrace at the western end.  Once you’re seated you’ll find an a la carte or tasting menu from which to choose.

An inventive starter to go for is the octopus carparccio, which is as visually stunning as it is delicious. Incredibly thin slitters of chilli and paprika marinated octopus are laid down as a bed for an array of refreshing, Mediterranean morsels. Instant surprises are the dollops of lemon curd, the chucks of watermelon and tangy mango, which balance-out the salty deep-fried tentacles and the Spanish warmth of the paprika.

Outstanding too is the sous-vide monk fish which has been gently cooked to serve at its mouth-watering best. Finished in a pan with browned butter, this fish stands-up magnificently against what you might think would be accompaniments for meat. A herby, buttery risotto, the oniony taste of a baby leek and a rich rich veal stock sauce – though – it’s the unassuming garnish that really pulls this dish together. Lemon is the classic mix with fish but here its zest is candied to give it amazing sweetness and acid zing to balance all the flavours on the plate.

Dessert, while simple, doesn’t disappoint either. A luxurious white chocolate mousse is covered with a blood orange jelly, marinated strawberry slices and a crumb for texture. If that wasn’t enough, a large quenelle of yoghurt ice cream gives a refreshing finish to the dish and meal.

While we won’t give you a 1,000 word description of all of the dishes, it’s important to say that others, including the crab starter and the classic turbot main, are also divine. The best way to find out more is to go and try for yourself; you’ll be glad you did.

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