Soho constantly reinvents itself to attract fashionable, lively crowds to its bars and restaurants. With an exuberant mix of tourists and Londoners, it’s gratifying to find that a neighbourhood restaurant, much in the same style as Corner Room has sprung-up to fulfil an aching gap for good quality relaxed dining in the area.
10 Greek St merges industrial and minimalism, with a row of simple tables, a long banquette and wooden chairs. At the back the chefs work in an open kitchen behind a counter, where you can have a glass of wine from the thoughtful, inventive list along with a few snacks. Although the restaurant may seem a bit austere, it hints at the creativity to come on its ever changing handwritten black boards.
Laid-back, but attentive staff help to give the dining room its warm and inviting feeling. Customers all seem to have read reviews about this cosiness are happy to soak it up while they sit down for drink, eat and enjoy themselves.
With modern Italian overtones, the food focuses obn good quality ingredients being used simply to highlight their character. The beetroot risotto is a bright, attractive dish that tastes even better. Balance is achieved with its acidity while the colour and flavour pervade the fat grains, set against the candied sweet walnuts and the stark saltiness of goats’ cheese. Very tasty indeed.
Mains wise, a melting slice of pork ballotine sits on a bed of nutty chickpeas and deep irony cavalo nero, offset by some dainty, well grilled squid that sits atop. Though the naughty star of this meal is the pork crackling finger which will be up there with the best you’ve ever eaten.
For dessert, Greek St plays on the French classic ‘Colonel’ lemon sorbet which is normally doused with a shot of vodka by making a clever tonic water sorbet and a gin accompaniment. The rich, dark chocolate ganache is also praiseworthy, even for non-chocolate lovers.
The result of all of this is that Greek St is a great place to have a quiet, intimate dinner with friends, or even your parents. It has no pretensions of grandeur and it does what it says it will do very well. Let’s hope London sees starts to see more and more well priced neighbourhood restaurants.